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PD Sabre2 Pro Pack by Nick Grillet - Part 1 of 3

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    I'm Nick Roulette. I'm going to show you guys how I pack a Sabre 2.
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    Pretty much the same pack job whether it's the Sabretooth Stiletto...
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    anything made by Precision, Icarus, PD, Aerodyne...you name it. Pretty much pack everything the same.
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    First thing that I do, I like to weight down the rig.
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    One of the important things is to have proper line tension during the pack job.
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    I've got my weight here on the risers.
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    Whether you're packing in a hanger, or on grass, tarp...
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    figure out a way that you can secure the rig so that you can get some good tension on those lines
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    to keep 'em straight.
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    Start by picking the steering lines up and laying them on my index finger.
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    And then grabbing those rear risers in between my index finger and my middle finger.
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    And in between my middle finger and my ring finger pick up those front risers.
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    Then I walk up the lines. It's basically a continuity check.
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    It allows me to make sure that the jumper - if it wasn't me -
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    didn't flip through the lines or anything on landing.
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    So I give it a quick check, make sure the steering lines are clear - which they are.
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    The C's and D's - which they are - and the A's and B's.
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    Then I throw it over my shoulder.
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    It's comfortable for me to throw it over my shoulder as opposed to just holding with my hand.
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    It's about personal preference.
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    First thing that I do is grab the C's and D's and A's and B's and give the canopy a good shake left to right.
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    It's essentially the same thing as if you were to start on the ground and do a flat pack.
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    What it allows for is the canopy to lay flat instead of being bunched up...
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    from any air that might be in the canopy, or any wind that may be out there...
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    that this jumper was struggling with while he was picking up his canopy.
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    So, once I do that, I'm just going to go...I'm going to start and do a normal flake job just like anything else.
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    Sabretooth happens to be a nine-cell, so there should be nine of these cells that I'm going to count out.
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    Not too concerned about where the cell's gonna place when I'm actually flaking.
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    I'm more concerned about the line attachment points here.
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    Up here by the slider. Those are what I really want to have equal.
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    So, I'm just going to go through...one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, and nine.
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    Flatten those out a little bit, get some air out.
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    I can see that all these line attachment points look good. They're in place.
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    So I know that the canopy is going to be easy for me to pack.
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    I secure it between my legs - again personal preference.
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    Some people don't even secure the nose,
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    especially starting packing up. So, starting packing:
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    Uh, it's easier to keep stuff under control that way.
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    I'm just going to lift up this slider, and I'm going to...
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    There's a pocket that's kind of created, between the A line and the B lines.
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    I think everybody has learned from any packing class that they've taken...
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    that the canopy goes - the canopy material goes to the outside, the lines go to the centre.
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    I'm looking through here and seeing that my line attachment points are pretty much lining up,
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    and that's what I'm trying to achieve.
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    So I work my way through the pack job, pushing the material to the outside,
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    keeping those lines to the inside.
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    Helps because I have longer arms. Move down to the stabiliser and these steering lines.
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    I'm not going to mess with them right now. I'm basically just going to clear them out of the way.
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    Get every last one of them in line.
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    Because it's a nine-cell there's five lines here.
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    Line attachment points that I need to deal with.
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    Stow that there for now.
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    This just gives you a better idea of what it looks like from the packer's point of view.
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    So, as I reach my hand down in there you can see there's all these line attachment points.
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    Are pretty much in line. I'm just going to reach my hand into that open fabric here.
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    Push the canopy fabric to the outside while trying to keep these line attachment points to the centre.
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    I'd really like to have these line up as best as possible.
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    I just put my hand on the outside to lay those nice and flat.
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    We look into the next one here.
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    And we can see where all that material is. We know exactly where we're going to put our hand.
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    We can see the line attachment points. Gonna put my hand in there.
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    This is why I put my hand on the top side on the outside of the pack job.
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    It helps me keep those line attachment points in place.
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    And if we just pull that stabiliser off to the side a bit, you can see that everything's nice and neat in there.
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    Once we go further on it gets a little more challenging,
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    because the...any taper that may occur. Any elliptical ...
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    These are the steering lines. I'm not worried about them; I'm just getting them out of the way.
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    Here's four. Those are the real easy ones to find.
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    This fifth one is over here, hidden, on the stabiliser itself.
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    Want to make sure that we find that every time.
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    Grab all of those together. I like to just keep my hand on the five line attachment points while I do this.
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    And I go back. Material's to the outside. All these line attachment points are towards the centre of the canopy.
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    Then I straighten out those steering lines.
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    Everything is good here. These are all in line.
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    I'm just going to lay the stabiliser on top. If you have snaps on your canopy this is where you'd connect those.
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    And then I just allow that slider to go back into position.
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    As I work the other side.
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    That's basically one side. I'm going to do the exact same thing to the other side now.
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    Hold that slider grommet so that I can see in there.
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    Material goes to the outside of the canopy. I keep my hand on here to keep those line attachment points to the centre.
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    And again I work my way through the canopy. Like so.
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    You notice I'm kind of leaning away from the rig. I'm keeping the line tension.
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    I want to make sure that there's not any slack in my lines.
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    It's very important.
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    These are the steering lines. Just gonna take those out to the side.
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    So, basically I've done the flaking that I need to do.
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    Doesn't take too long. Fabric's to the outside. Line attachment points to the centre.
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    Now, a couple of very important things that need to take place.
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    I need to make sure that my slider grommets are all the way down on the stops.
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    If they're up here and I'm starting to roll the tail up, there's a good chance that
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    I'm going to experience a hard opening becaues the sliders aren't in position.
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    You see a lot of people pull the slider out here and make a pocket in the lip.
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    All that does is when you pull the slider that direction - whether it's toward the tail of the canopy...
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    or towards the nose of the canopy - you end up taking some of the slider away from the sides here,
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    and whichever direction you're pulling it from.
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    So if I'm pulling it towards the nose, I'm pulling it away from the tail and from each side.
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    The best thing that you could do is take your index finger and push it straight down in between that slider...
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    until you feel some tension on that. That ensure that your grommets are down all the way,
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    and that your slider's pretty much in position.
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    After that I just kind of clean it up a bit, and make sure that there's equal parts left to right, nose to tail.
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    Also, while I'm here, I can see if my risers are straight. If my grommets are lined up, I know my risers are straight.
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    If my grommets are offset, I know something going on behind me.
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    I don't need to turn around and look to fix it.
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    I can just do whatever I need to do to straighten it here at the slider.
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    Once everything's in position, I'm going to go through one more time,
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    and just make sure that this nose hasn't got tucked awry, or pushed in or anything.
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    I don't do anything to the nose. I leave it just like that.
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    Some people push it in. That's fine if that's the opening that you desire.
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    Some people roll it. For starting out - for teaching people how to pack - I don't do anything.
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    Once you have your canopy, and you're making the jump on your canopy, if you wanna experiment
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    with your pack job, see what makes and try to find an opening that you like the best,
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    go for it...but know that we've done a lot of testing as well - individual skydivers, and everything else,
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    and we've found that keeping the nose straight gives us the most consistent opening.
Title:
PD Sabre2 Pro Pack by Nick Grillet - Part 1 of 3
Description:

Nick Grillet of Performance Designs pro-packing a Sabre2 135. If you have any questions about the content in this video, please contact PD via email at support@performancedesigns.com

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Video Language:
English
Team:
Captions Requested
Duration:
08:57

English subtitles

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