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PD Sabre2 Pro Pack by Nick Grillet - Part 3 of 3

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    I'm gonna remove my knee - again putting my hand in place,
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    to make sure that this first S-fold that I did doesn't move.
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    I'm just gonna roll what I've just done on top of it.
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    Once there's some pressure here I can remove this hand.
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    Again, I'm not struggling with this pack job right now.
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    This is a pretty new canopy - I think it only has ten jumps on it maybe.
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    So, it's brand new. What I'm gonna do is, I put my knee here...
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    [coughing] excuse me.
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    for a little bit of support. I think it also allows me to keep that fold from sliding out:
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    that first S-fold.
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    Now we can clearly see that the canopy is close to the size of the bag.
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    I'm just going to slide the bag over it.
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    I'm gonna slowly lift each side of the bag, and pull this flap underneath.
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    Like so.
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    With lots of practice, and a good shape to work with, that parachute goes right into that bag.
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    Going to hop onto the other side here. We take a look down those lines.
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    Even after working with that pack job and doing the double S-fold and getting it into the bag,
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    the lines still look good. There's no slack in those lines.
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    I know that because there's no slack in those lines, everything that I've done in that pack job
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    during the flaking, during getting the air out of it and everything else, and putting it into the bag,
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    nothing's changed.
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    So once that canopy's in the bag, I like to set it up on its end.
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    I bring this flap over.
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    Instead of stretching the rubber band to the grommet,
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    I really make sure that this grommet comes all the way down to that piece of tape, or the base of that rubber band.
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    So, pushing that down here.
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    Getting that rubber band through.
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    I use large rubber bands, not any tube stows or anything like that.
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    And I put two wraps on it - and I'll show you what I do.
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    You see something that I just did that really helps me out:
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    I reach as far down as I can, comfortably without stretching myself.
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    And I bring all of that - any extra slack - out right now.
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    And I make my stow, and I put two wraps on there.
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    Because I have two wraps on my stows - whether they're through the grommets "locking stows"...
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    or on the rubber bands on the side - I don't need to have really really long stows.
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    Inch and a half to two inches long is what we would recommend.
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    Because we have proper tension on those stows, we don't need to have a lot.
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    Some people put the bag in between their knees like this. I'm going to do it like this.
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    Whatever it is, I just don't like dragging my rig that much.
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    So I walk my canopy or my bag to my canopy.
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    Making nice even stows all the way down.
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    There's no spaghetti in between there.
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    There's a little bit right there. That's gonna come mainly from the cascades of those lines.
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    Now there comes another rubber band on there. I'm gonna finish this up.
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    Put this last little bit of line in there.
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    I recommend anywhere from twelve to eighteen inches from the top of these lines here to this stow.
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    A little more is OK. Much less than that is going to be some problems.
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    We could if we wanted to put a single wrap here, but I really wouldn't. I would leave about this much excess.
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    Twelve inches isn't necessarily enough if you're packing a tandem rig.
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    But eighteen inches might be a little too much if you're packing a normal sport rig.
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    So it kind of depends on the size of the parachute; the size of the container...
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    but, general rule of thumb that we all pretty much go by
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    is twelve to eighteen inches from that last stow to the top of those risers.
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    There's a lot of variables that go into that, like the risers and everything else,
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    so if you shoot and aim for twelve to eighteen inches that's good.
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    If there was ever a stow that we could afford to have looser it would be the very last stow.
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    The one that's going to be pulled out first during the deployment.
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    The reason behind that ... basically allows that bag to get out off your back,
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    out of that pack tray, and into clean air
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    without holding tight, if we wrap it super tight we can experience the bag rotating.
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    which can give us off-heading openings; possibly even line twist.
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    Basically, openings that nobody wants. So.
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    So if there was one that we could do, it would be... like if I were to stow these lines right here...
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    I would probably just put them in this large rubber band as a beauty stow or something of the sort,
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    which doesn't do anything except for keep it nice and neat when I put my canopy in the bag.
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    So that's pretty much the pack job that we went over.
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    A few of the things that we need to remember for the pack job:
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    Proper line tension:
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    We achieve that by getting something on our rig to weigh it down, whether it's a sand bag or a bowling ball...
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    if you're packing outside and you put a stake in the grass and you wrap your leg straps around there...
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    something like that, allows us to give good line tension during the pack job.
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    Making sure that that slider is down on the stops and quartered equally on all parts.
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    Don't pull it forward to the nose; don't pull it back to the tail.
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    The tip of putting your finger in the centre of that slider and pushing down:
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    that pretty much gives us the slider position that we're looking to achieve.
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    I don't do anything with the nose in my canopies, and I don't roll my tail really hard.
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    The mindset that I think of when I put the parachute in the bag is getting the parachute
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    to the approximate size of the bag, and then sliding that bag over that parachute.
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    You don't have to struggle with it. You saw that it was pretty easy even though it's a brand new canopy.
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    We could still get it in there.
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    And then double wrapping large rubber bands gives us the most consistent openings.
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    Because we have two wraps on those rubber bands, or on those stows,
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    we know the line stow is secured; we don't need to have really long stows.
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    So, an inch and a half to two inches from the rubber band to the end of the stow.
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    Eliminating any sort of spaghetti that goes on in there,
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    and twelve to eighteen inches from that last stow to the top of those risers.
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    If we can achieve those things, we're going to get the most consistent openings on our parachutes.
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    Which are going to give us the best skydives, and the most enjoyable skydives,
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    that we can get. So, good luck guys.
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    Hopefully you can practice this, and find a technique that works well for you.
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    And blue skies.
Title:
PD Sabre2 Pro Pack by Nick Grillet - Part 3 of 3
Description:

Nick Grillet of Performance Designs packing a Sabre2 135 - Part 3. If you have any questions about the content in this video, please contact PD via email at support@performancedesigns.com

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Video Language:
English
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Duration:
08:43

English subtitles

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