To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life
-
0:01 - 0:07So in the oasis of
intelligentsia that is TED, -
0:07 - 0:09I stand here before you this evening
-
0:09 - 0:15as an expert in dragging heavy
stuff around cold places. -
0:15 - 0:18I've been leading polar expeditions
for most of my adult life, -
0:18 - 0:22and last month, my teammate
Tarka L'Herpiniere and I -
0:22 - 0:27finished the most ambitious
expedition I've ever attempted. -
0:27 - 0:30In fact, it feels like I've been
transported straight here -
0:30 - 0:33from four months in the middle of nowhere,
-
0:33 - 0:38mostly grunting and swearing,
straight to the TED stage. -
0:38 - 0:42So you can imagine that's a transition
that hasn't been entirely seamless. -
0:42 - 0:44One of the interesting side effects
-
0:44 - 0:46seems to be that my short-term
memory is entirely shot. -
0:46 - 0:49So I've had to write some notes
-
0:49 - 0:53to avoid too much grunting and swearing
in the next 17 minutes. -
0:53 - 0:56This is the first talk I've given
about this expedition, -
0:56 - 1:02and while we weren't sequencing genomes
or building space telescopes, -
1:02 - 1:06this is a story about giving everything
we had to achieve something -
1:06 - 1:08that hadn't been done before.
-
1:08 - 1:12So I hope in that you might
find some food for thought. -
1:12 - 1:16It was a journey, an
expedition in Antarctica, -
1:16 - 1:21the coldest, windiest, driest and
highest altitude continent on Earth. -
1:21 - 1:23It's a fascinating place.
It's a huge place. -
1:23 - 1:25It's twice the size of Australia,
-
1:25 - 1:30a continent that is the same size
as China and India put together. -
1:30 - 1:32As an aside, I have experienced
-
1:32 - 1:34an interesting phenomenon
in the last few days, -
1:34 - 1:38something that I expect Chris Hadfield
may get at TED in a few years' time, -
1:38 - 1:40conversations that go something like this:
-
1:40 - 1:42"Oh, Antarctica. Awesome.
-
1:42 - 1:48My husband and I did Antarctica
with Lindblad for our anniversary." -
1:48 - 1:51Or, "Oh cool, did you go there
for the marathon?" -
1:51 - 1:53(Laughter)
-
1:54 - 1:58Our journey was, in fact,
69 marathons back to back -
1:58 - 2:04in 105 days, an 1,800-mile round trip
on foot from the coast of Antarctica -
2:04 - 2:07to the South Pole and back again.
-
2:07 - 2:09In the process, we broke the record
-
2:09 - 2:15for the longest human-powered polar
journey in history by more than 400 miles. -
2:15 - 2:19(Applause)
-
2:19 - 2:22For those of you from the Bay Area,
-
2:22 - 2:26it was the same as walking from
here to San Francisco, -
2:26 - 2:29then turning around
and walking back again. -
2:29 - 2:34So as camping trips go, it was a long one,
-
2:34 - 2:37and one I've seen summarized
most succinctly here -
2:37 - 2:41on the hallowed pages
of Business Insider Malaysia. -
2:41 - 2:46["Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition
That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"] -
2:46 - 2:49Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently
-
2:49 - 2:54about fear and about the odds of success,
and indeed the odds of survival. -
2:54 - 2:58Of the nine people in history that had
attempted this journey before us, -
2:58 - 3:01none had made it to the pole and back,
-
3:01 - 3:05and five had died in the process.
-
3:05 - 3:07This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott.
-
3:07 - 3:10He led the last team
to attempt this expedition. -
3:10 - 3:12Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton,
-
3:12 - 3:15over the space of a decade,
-
3:15 - 3:19both led expeditions battling to become
the first to reach the South Pole, -
3:19 - 3:22to chart and map
the interior of Antarctica, -
3:22 - 3:25a place we knew less about, at the time,
-
3:25 - 3:26than the surface of the moon,
-
3:26 - 3:29because we could see
the moon through telescopes. -
3:29 - 3:33Antarctica was, for the most part,
a century ago, uncharted. -
3:33 - 3:34Some of you may know the story.
-
3:34 - 3:37Scott's last expedition, the
Terra Nova Expedition in 1910, -
3:37 - 3:40started as a giant
siege-style approach. -
3:40 - 3:42He had a big team using ponies,
-
3:42 - 3:45using dogs, using petrol-driven tractors,
-
3:45 - 3:48dropping multiple, pre-positioned
depots of food and fuel -
3:48 - 3:52through which Scott's final team of five
would travel to the Pole, -
3:52 - 3:55where they would turn around and ski
back to the coast again on foot. -
3:55 - 3:58Scott and his final team of five
-
3:58 - 4:01arrived at the South Pole
in January 1912 -
4:01 - 4:06to find they had been beaten to it
by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen, -
4:06 - 4:08who rode on dogsled.
-
4:08 - 4:10Scott's team ended up on foot.
-
4:10 - 4:15And for more than a century
this journey has remained unfinished. -
4:15 - 4:18Scott's team of five died
on the return journey. -
4:18 - 4:20And for the last decade,
-
4:20 - 4:23I've been asking myself why that is.
-
4:23 - 4:26How come this has remained
the high-water mark? -
4:26 - 4:29Scott's team covered 1,600 miles on foot.
-
4:29 - 4:30No one's come close to that ever since.
-
4:30 - 4:33So this is the high-water mark
of human endurance, -
4:33 - 4:36human endeavor,
human athletic achievement -
4:36 - 4:39in arguably the harshest climate on Earth.
-
4:39 - 4:41It was as if the marathon record
-
4:41 - 4:44has remained unbroken since 1912.
-
4:44 - 4:49And of course some strange and
predictable combination of curiosity, -
4:49 - 4:51stubbornness, and probably hubris
-
4:51 - 4:55led me to thinking I might be the man
to try to finish the job. -
4:55 - 4:59Unlike Scott's expedition,
there were just two of us, -
4:59 - 5:02and we set off from the coast
of Antarctica in October last year, -
5:02 - 5:04dragging everything ourselves,
-
5:04 - 5:07a process Scott called "man-hauling."
-
5:07 - 5:10When I say it was like walking from
here to San Francisco and back, -
5:10 - 5:13I actually mean it was like dragging
something that weighs a shade more -
5:13 - 5:16than the heaviest ever NFL player.
-
5:16 - 5:18Our sledges weighed 200 kilos,
-
5:18 - 5:21or 440 pounds each at the start,
-
5:21 - 5:25the same weights that the weakest
of Scott's ponies pulled. -
5:25 - 5:28Early on, we averaged 0.5 miles per hour.
-
5:28 - 5:32Perhaps the reason no one had
attempted this journey until now, -
5:32 - 5:33in more than a century,
-
5:33 - 5:38was that no one had been quite
stupid enough to try. -
5:38 - 5:40And while I can't claim we were exploring
-
5:40 - 5:43in the genuine Edwardian
sense of the word — -
5:43 - 5:47we weren't naming any mountains
or mapping any uncharted valleys — -
5:47 - 5:52I think we were stepping into uncharted
territory in a human sense. -
5:52 - 5:55Certainly, if in the future we learn
there is an area of the human brain -
5:55 - 5:59that lights up when one curses oneself,
-
5:59 - 6:02I won't be at all surprised.
-
6:02 - 6:06You've heard that the average American
spends 90 percent of their time indoors. -
6:06 - 6:09We didn't go indoors
for nearly four months. -
6:09 - 6:11We didn't see a sunset either.
-
6:11 - 6:13It was 24-hour daylight.
-
6:13 - 6:15Living conditions were quite spartan.
-
6:15 - 6:20I changed my underwear
three times in 105 days -
6:20 - 6:24and Tarka and I shared
30 square feet on the canvas. -
6:24 - 6:29Though we did have some technology
that Scott could never have imagined. -
6:29 - 6:32And we blogged live every evening
from the tent via a laptop -
6:32 - 6:34and a custom-made satellite transmitter,
-
6:34 - 6:36all of which were solar-powered:
-
6:36 - 6:38we had a flexible photovoltaic
panel over the tent. -
6:38 - 6:42And the writing was important to me.
-
6:42 - 6:48As a kid, I was inspired by the
literature of adventure and exploration, -
6:48 - 6:51and I think we've all seen
here this week -
6:51 - 6:55the importance and
the power of storytelling. -
6:55 - 6:57So we had some 21st-century gear,
-
6:57 - 7:00but the reality is that the
challenges that Scott faced -
7:00 - 7:02were the same that we faced:
-
7:02 - 7:06those of the weather and of
what Scott called glide, -
7:06 - 7:09the amount of friction between
the sledges and the snow. -
7:09 - 7:13The lowest wind chill
we experienced was in the -70s, -
7:13 - 7:15and we had zero visibility,
what's called white-out, -
7:15 - 7:18for much of our journey.
-
7:18 - 7:21We traveled up and down one of the largest
-
7:21 - 7:24and most dangerous glaciers
in the world, the Beardmore glacier. -
7:24 - 7:27It's 110 miles long; most of its surface
is what's called blue ice. -
7:27 - 7:31You can see it's a beautiful,
shimmering steel-hard blue surface -
7:31 - 7:35covered with thousands
and thousands of crevasses, -
7:35 - 7:39these deep cracks in the glacial ice
up to 200 feet deep. -
7:39 - 7:40Planes can't land here,
-
7:40 - 7:44so we were at the most risk,
-
7:44 - 7:48technically, when we had the slimmest
chance of being rescued. -
7:48 - 7:52We got to the South Pole
after 61 days on foot, -
7:52 - 7:55with one day off for bad weather,
-
7:55 - 7:57and I'm sad to say, it was
something of an anticlimax. -
7:57 - 8:00There's a permanent American base,
-
8:00 - 8:03the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station
at the South Pole. -
8:03 - 8:05They have an airstrip,
they have a canteen, -
8:05 - 8:06they have hot showers,
-
8:06 - 8:08they have a post office, a tourist shop,
-
8:08 - 8:12a basketball court that doubles
as a movie theater. -
8:12 - 8:14So it's a bit different these days,
-
8:14 - 8:16and there are also acres of junk.
-
8:16 - 8:17I think it's a marvelous thing
-
8:17 - 8:23that humans can exist
365 days of the year -
8:23 - 8:26with hamburgers and hot showers
and movie theaters, -
8:26 - 8:29but it does seem to produce
a lot of empty cardboard boxes. -
8:29 - 8:31You can see on the left of
this photograph, -
8:31 - 8:32several square acres of junk
-
8:32 - 8:35waiting to be flown out
from the South Pole. -
8:35 - 8:39But there is also a pole at the South Pole,
-
8:39 - 8:42and we got there on foot, unassisted,
-
8:42 - 8:44unsupported, by the hardest route,
-
8:44 - 8:46900 miles in record time,
-
8:46 - 8:48dragging more weight
than anyone in history. -
8:48 - 8:50And if we'd stopped there
and flown home, -
8:50 - 8:53which would have been
the eminently sensible thing to do, -
8:53 - 8:55then my talk would end here
-
8:55 - 8:59and it would end something like this.
-
8:59 - 9:04If you have the right team around you,
the right tools, the right technology, -
9:04 - 9:07and if you have enough self-belief
and enough determination, -
9:07 - 9:11then anything is possible.
-
9:13 - 9:15But then we turned around,
-
9:15 - 9:18and this is where things get interesting.
-
9:18 - 9:21High on the Antarctic plateau,
-
9:21 - 9:25over 10,000 feet, it's very windy,
very cold, very dry, we were exhausted. -
9:25 - 9:27We'd covered 35 marathons,
-
9:27 - 9:28we were only halfway,
-
9:28 - 9:30and we had a safety net, of course,
-
9:30 - 9:32of ski planes and satellite phones
-
9:32 - 9:37and live, 24-hour tracking beacons
that didn't exist for Scott, -
9:37 - 9:38but in hindsight,
-
9:38 - 9:40rather than making our lives easier,
-
9:40 - 9:42the safety net actually allowed us
-
9:42 - 9:46to cut things very fine indeed,
-
9:46 - 9:50to sail very close to our absolute
limits as human beings. -
9:50 - 9:54And it is an exquisite form of torture
-
9:54 - 9:56to exhaust yourself to the point
of starvation day after day -
9:56 - 10:01while dragging a sledge
full of food. -
10:01 - 10:05For years, I'd been writing glib lines
in sponsorship proposals -
10:05 - 10:08about pushing the limits
of human endurance, -
10:08 - 10:12but in reality, that was
a very frightening place to be indeed. -
10:12 - 10:14We had, before we'd got to the Pole,
-
10:14 - 10:18two weeks of almost permanent
headwind, which slowed us down. -
10:18 - 10:20As a result, we'd had several days
of eating half rations. -
10:20 - 10:23We had a finite amount of food
in the sledges to make this journey, -
10:23 - 10:25so we were trying to string that out
-
10:25 - 10:29by reducing our intake to half
the calories we should have been eating. -
10:29 - 10:32As a result, we both became
increasingly hypoglycemic — -
10:32 - 10:35we had low blood sugar
levels day after day — -
10:35 - 10:40and increasingly susceptible
to the extreme cold. -
10:40 - 10:42Tarka took this photo of me one evening
-
10:42 - 10:44after I'd nearly passed out
with hypothermia. -
10:44 - 10:49We both had repeated bouts of hypothermia,
something I hadn't experienced before, -
10:49 - 10:51and it was very humbling indeed.
-
10:51 - 10:54As much as you might
like to think, as I do, -
10:54 - 10:57that you're the kind
of person who doesn't quit, -
10:57 - 10:59that you'll go down swinging,
-
10:59 - 11:01hypothermia doesn't leave you much choice.
-
11:01 - 11:04You become utterly incapacitated.
-
11:04 - 11:07It's like being a drunk toddler.
-
11:07 - 11:09You become pathetic.
-
11:09 - 11:13I remember just wanting
to lie down and quit. -
11:13 - 11:15It was a peculiar, peculiar feeling,
-
11:15 - 11:20and a real surprise to me
to be debilitated to that degree. -
11:20 - 11:25And then we ran out of food completely,
-
11:25 - 11:2846 miles short of the first of the depots
-
11:28 - 11:30that we'd laid on our outward journey.
-
11:30 - 11:32We'd laid 10 depots of food,
-
11:32 - 11:34literally burying food and fuel,
for our return journey — -
11:34 - 11:38the fuel was for a cooker so you
could melt snow to get water — -
11:38 - 11:43and I was forced to make the decision
to call for a resupply flight, -
11:43 - 11:48a ski plane carrying eight days of food
to tide us over that gap. -
11:48 - 11:51They took 12 hours to reach us
from the other side of Antarctica. -
11:51 - 11:55Calling for that plane was one of
the toughest decisions of my life. -
11:55 - 11:58And I sound like a bit of a fraud
standing here now with a sort of belly. -
11:58 - 12:01I've put on 30 pounds
in the last three weeks. -
12:01 - 12:04Being that hungry has left
an interesting mental scar, -
12:04 - 12:09which is that I've been hoovering up
every hotel buffet that I can find. -
12:09 - 12:11(Laughter)
-
12:11 - 12:16But we were genuinely quite hungry,
and in quite a bad way. -
12:16 - 12:19I don't regret calling
for that plane for a second, -
12:19 - 12:21because I'm still standing here alive,
-
12:21 - 12:23with all digits intact,
telling this story. -
12:23 - 12:28But getting external assistance like that
was never part of the plan, -
12:28 - 12:31and it's something my ego
is still struggling with. -
12:31 - 12:34This was the biggest dream I've ever had,
-
12:34 - 12:36and it was so nearly perfect.
-
12:37 - 12:39On the way back down to the coast,
-
12:39 - 12:41our crampons — they're
the spikes on our boots -
12:41 - 12:44that we have for traveling
over this blue ice on the glacier — -
12:44 - 12:45broke on the top of the Beardmore.
-
12:45 - 12:47We still had 100 miles to go downhill
-
12:47 - 12:49on very slippery rock-hard blue ice.
-
12:49 - 12:52They needed repairing almost every hour.
-
12:52 - 12:54To give you an idea of scale,
-
12:54 - 12:57this is looking down towards the mouth
of the Beardmore Glacier. -
12:57 - 13:00You could fit the entirety of Manhattan
in the gap on the horizon. -
13:00 - 13:03That's 20 miles between
Mount Hope and Mount Kiffin. -
13:03 - 13:10I've never felt as small
as I did in Antarctica. -
13:10 - 13:12When we got down
to the mouth of the glacier, -
13:12 - 13:16we found fresh snow had obscured
the dozens of deep crevasses. -
13:16 - 13:19One of Shackleton's men described
crossing this sort of terrain -
13:19 - 13:24as like walking over the glass roof
of a railway station. -
13:24 - 13:27We fell through more times
than I can remember, -
13:27 - 13:31usually just putting a ski
or a boot through the snow. -
13:31 - 13:33Occasionally we went in all
the way up to our armpits, -
13:33 - 13:37but thankfully never deeper than that.
-
13:37 - 13:41And less than five weeks ago,
after 105 days, -
13:41 - 13:45we crossed this oddly
inauspicious finish line, -
13:45 - 13:48the coast of Ross Island
on the New Zealand side of Antarctica. -
13:48 - 13:50You can see the ice in the foreground
-
13:50 - 13:53and the sort of rubbly rock behind that.
-
13:53 - 13:56Behind us lay an unbroken
ski trail of nearly 1,800 miles. -
13:56 - 13:59We'd made the longest ever
polar journey on foot, -
13:59 - 14:03something I'd been dreaming
of doing for a decade. -
14:03 - 14:05And looking back,
-
14:05 - 14:08I still stand by all the things
-
14:08 - 14:09I've been saying for years
-
14:09 - 14:11about the importance of goals
-
14:11 - 14:15and determination and self-belief,
-
14:15 - 14:20but I'll also admit that I hadn't given
much thought to what happens -
14:20 - 14:23when you reach the all-consuming goal
-
14:23 - 14:27that you've dedicated
most of your adult life to, -
14:27 - 14:30and the reality is that I'm
still figuring that bit out. -
14:30 - 14:34As I said, there are very few
superficial signs that I've been away. -
14:34 - 14:35I've put on 30 pounds.
-
14:35 - 14:39I've got some very faint, probably
covered in makeup now, frostbite scars. -
14:39 - 14:42I've got one on my nose, one on
each cheek, from where the goggles are, -
14:42 - 14:47but inside I am a very
different person indeed. -
14:47 - 14:50If I'm honest,
-
14:50 - 14:55Antarctica challenged me
and humbled me so deeply -
14:55 - 14:59that I'm not sure I'll ever be able
to put it into words. -
14:59 - 15:03I'm still struggling to piece
together my thoughts. -
15:03 - 15:06That I'm standing here
telling this story -
15:06 - 15:11is proof that we all can
accomplish great things, -
15:11 - 15:13through ambition, through passion,
-
15:13 - 15:15through sheer stubbornness,
-
15:15 - 15:17by refusing to quit,
-
15:17 - 15:20that if you dream something
hard enough, as Sting said, -
15:20 - 15:23it does indeed come to pass.
-
15:23 - 15:26But I'm also standing here
saying, you know what, -
15:26 - 15:32that cliche about the journey being
more important than the destination? -
15:32 - 15:36There's something in that.
-
15:36 - 15:38The closer I got to my finish line,
-
15:38 - 15:42that rubbly, rocky coast of Ross Island,
-
15:42 - 15:45the more I started to realize
that the biggest lesson -
15:45 - 15:49that this very long, very hard walk
might be teaching me -
15:49 - 15:53is that happiness is not
a finish line, -
15:53 - 15:55that for us humans,
-
15:55 - 15:58the perfection that so many of
us seem to dream of -
15:58 - 16:02might not ever be truly attainable,
-
16:02 - 16:11and that if we can't feel content
here, today, now, on our journeys -
16:11 - 16:15amidst the mess and the striving
that we all inhabit, -
16:15 - 16:18the open loops,
the half-finished to-do lists, -
16:18 - 16:21the could-do-better-next-times,
-
16:21 - 16:24then we might never feel it.
-
16:24 - 16:28A lot of people have asked me, what next?
-
16:28 - 16:35Right now, I am very happy just recovering
and in front of hotel buffets. -
16:35 - 16:39But as Bob Hope put it,
-
16:39 - 16:41I feel very humble,
-
16:41 - 16:45but I think I have the strength
of character to fight it. (Laughter) -
16:45 - 16:47Thank you.
-
16:47 - 16:51(Applause)
- Title:
- To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life
- Speaker:
- Ben Saunders
- Description:
-
This year, explorer Ben Saunders attempted his most ambitious trek yet. He set out to complete Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s failed 1912 polar expedition — a four-month, 1,800-mile round trip journey from the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back. In the first talk given after his adventure, just five weeks after his return, Saunders offers a raw, honest look at this “hubris”-tinged mission that brought him to the most difficult decision of his life.
- Video Language:
- English
- Team:
- closed TED
- Project:
- TEDTalks
- Duration:
- 17:04
Eren Gokce commented on English subtitles for To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life | ||
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Morton Bast edited English subtitles for To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life | ||
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Eren Gokce
13:00 - 13:03: I think it should be Mount Kyffin instead of Mount Kiffin:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Kyffin
Thanks for any feedback,
Regards.