1 00:00:00,917 --> 00:00:03,105 This is not a story of Tibet 2 00:00:03,105 --> 00:00:05,180 and it's not a story of the Amazon. 3 00:00:05,180 --> 00:00:07,618 I won't be taking you to the high Arctic, 4 00:00:07,618 --> 00:00:11,721 the life of the Inuit, or to the searing sands of the Sahara. 5 00:00:11,721 --> 00:00:16,729 This is actually a story of my own backyard. 6 00:00:16,729 --> 00:00:20,005 It's a land known to the Tahltan people 7 00:00:20,005 --> 00:00:22,814 and all the First Nations of British Columbia 8 00:00:22,814 --> 00:00:25,161 as the Sacred Headwaters, 9 00:00:25,161 --> 00:00:29,113 the source of the three great salmon rivers of home, 10 00:00:29,113 --> 00:00:33,611 the Skeena, the Stikine and the Nass. 11 00:00:33,611 --> 00:00:36,361 It's a valley where, in a long day, perhaps, too, 12 00:00:36,361 --> 00:00:38,899 you can follow the tracks of grizzly and wolf 13 00:00:38,899 --> 00:00:41,136 and drink from the very sources of water 14 00:00:41,136 --> 00:00:43,758 that gave rise and cradled the great civilizations 15 00:00:43,758 --> 00:00:45,721 of the Northwest Coast. 16 00:00:45,721 --> 00:00:49,971 It's such a beautiful place. It's the most stunningly wild place I've ever been. 17 00:00:49,971 --> 00:00:52,192 It's the sort of place that we, as Canadians, 18 00:00:52,192 --> 00:00:55,258 could throw England, and they'd never find it. 19 00:00:55,258 --> 00:00:59,071 John Muir, in 1879, went up just the lower third of the Stikine, 20 00:00:59,071 --> 00:01:00,921 and he was so enraptured he called it 21 00:01:00,921 --> 00:01:03,221 a Yosemite 150 miles long. 22 00:01:03,221 --> 00:01:05,259 He came back to California 23 00:01:05,259 --> 00:01:08,471 and named his dog after that river of enchantment. 24 00:01:08,471 --> 00:01:10,822 In the Lower 48, the farthest you can get away 25 00:01:10,822 --> 00:01:13,035 from a maintained road is 20 miles. 26 00:01:13,035 --> 00:01:15,759 In the Northwest Quadrant of British Columbia, 27 00:01:15,759 --> 00:01:18,684 an area of land the size of Oregon, there's one road, 28 00:01:18,684 --> 00:01:21,397 a narrow ribbon of asphalt that slips up the side 29 00:01:21,397 --> 00:01:24,432 of the Coast Mountains to the Yukon. 30 00:01:24,432 --> 00:01:27,557 I followed that road in the early 1970s, 31 00:01:27,557 --> 00:01:30,329 soon after it was built, to take a job as the first park ranger 32 00:01:30,329 --> 00:01:32,603 in Spatsizi wilderness. 33 00:01:32,603 --> 00:01:35,837 My job description was deliciously vague: 34 00:01:35,837 --> 00:01:39,981 wilderness assessment and public relations. 35 00:01:39,981 --> 00:01:43,278 In two four-month seasons I saw not a dozen people. 36 00:01:43,278 --> 00:01:46,144 There was no one to relate publicly to. 37 00:01:46,144 --> 00:01:47,871 But in the course of these wanderings, 38 00:01:47,871 --> 00:01:50,254 I came upon an old shaman's grave 39 00:01:50,254 --> 00:01:52,917 that led to an encounter with a remarkable man: 40 00:01:52,917 --> 00:01:57,401 Alex Jack, an Gitxsan elder and chief who had lived 41 00:01:57,401 --> 00:02:01,067 as a trapper and a hunter in that country for all of his life. 42 00:02:01,067 --> 00:02:04,604 And over the course of 30 years, I recorded traditional tales 43 00:02:04,604 --> 00:02:08,493 from Alex, mostly mythological accounts of Wy-ghet, 44 00:02:08,493 --> 00:02:11,773 the trickster transformer of Gitxsan lore 45 00:02:11,773 --> 00:02:15,569 who, in his folly, taught the people how to live on the land. 46 00:02:15,569 --> 00:02:19,357 And just before Alex died at the age of 96, 47 00:02:19,357 --> 00:02:21,200 he gave me a gift. 48 00:02:21,200 --> 00:02:24,960 It was a tool carved from caribou bone 49 00:02:24,960 --> 00:02:27,736 by his grandfather in 1910, 50 00:02:27,736 --> 00:02:31,020 and it turned out to be a specialized implement 51 00:02:31,020 --> 00:02:35,247 used by a trapper to skin out the eyelids of wolves. 52 00:02:35,247 --> 00:02:39,298 It was only when Alex passed away that I realized that 53 00:02:39,298 --> 00:02:42,272 the eyelids, in some sense, were my own, 54 00:02:42,272 --> 00:02:45,433 and having done so much to allow me to learn to see, 55 00:02:45,433 --> 00:02:49,271 Alex in his own way was saying goodbye. 56 00:02:49,271 --> 00:02:51,977 Well, isolation has been the great saving grace 57 00:02:51,977 --> 00:02:56,221 of this remarkable place, but today isolation could be its doom. 58 00:02:56,221 --> 00:02:59,321 You've heard so much about the developments of the tar sands, 59 00:02:59,321 --> 00:03:02,989 the controversy about the Keystone and the Enbridge pipelines, 60 00:03:02,989 --> 00:03:05,699 but these are just elements of a tsunami 61 00:03:05,699 --> 00:03:08,086 of industrial development that is sweeping across 62 00:03:08,086 --> 00:03:11,884 all of the wild country of northern Canada. 63 00:03:11,884 --> 00:03:17,311 In Tahltan territory alone, there are 41 major industrial proposals, 64 00:03:17,311 --> 00:03:21,022 some with great promise, some of great concern. 65 00:03:21,022 --> 00:03:23,235 On Todagin Mountain, 66 00:03:23,235 --> 00:03:27,999 revered by the Tahltan people as a wildlife sanctuary in the sky, 67 00:03:27,999 --> 00:03:32,260 home to the largest population of stone sheep on the planet, 68 00:03:32,260 --> 00:03:34,323 Imperial Metals -- 69 00:03:34,323 --> 00:03:37,421 but the 75th-biggest mining company in all of Canada -- 70 00:03:37,421 --> 00:03:39,911 has secured permits to establish an open-pit 71 00:03:39,911 --> 00:03:41,880 copper and gold mine which will process 72 00:03:41,880 --> 00:03:45,873 30,000 tons of rock a day for 30 years, 73 00:03:45,873 --> 00:03:49,399 generating hundreds of millions of tons of toxic waste 74 00:03:49,399 --> 00:03:52,449 that, by the project's design, will simply be dumped 75 00:03:52,449 --> 00:03:56,148 into the lakes of the Sacred Headwaters. 76 00:03:56,148 --> 00:03:58,824 At the Headwaters itself, 77 00:03:58,824 --> 00:04:02,350 Shell Canada has plans to extract methane gas 78 00:04:02,350 --> 00:04:06,237 from coal seams that underly a million acres, 79 00:04:06,237 --> 00:04:09,483 fracking the coal with hundreds of millions of gallons 80 00:04:09,483 --> 00:04:11,562 of toxic chemicals, 81 00:04:11,562 --> 00:04:14,337 establishing perhaps as many as 6,000 wellheads, 82 00:04:14,337 --> 00:04:17,813 and eventually a network of roads and pipelines 83 00:04:17,813 --> 00:04:21,733 and flaring wellheads, all to generate methane gas 84 00:04:21,733 --> 00:04:24,175 that most likely will go east 85 00:04:24,175 --> 00:04:28,410 to fuel the expansion of the tar sands. 86 00:04:28,410 --> 00:04:31,025 For over a decade, the Tahltan people, 87 00:04:31,025 --> 00:04:33,426 both clans, Wolf and Crow, 88 00:04:33,426 --> 00:04:36,339 have resisted this assault on their homeland. 89 00:04:36,339 --> 00:04:39,588 Men, women and children of all ages, 90 00:04:39,588 --> 00:04:42,316 elders in wheelchairs, have blockaded 91 00:04:42,316 --> 00:04:45,628 the only road access to the interior. 92 00:04:45,628 --> 00:04:48,269 For them, the Headwaters is a kitchen. 93 00:04:48,269 --> 00:04:52,041 It's a sanctuary. It's a burial ground of their ancestors. 94 00:04:52,041 --> 00:04:53,876 And those who really own it 95 00:04:53,876 --> 00:04:57,903 are the generations as yet unborn. 96 00:04:57,903 --> 00:05:00,341 The Tahltan have been able, 97 00:05:00,341 --> 00:05:03,367 with the support of all Canadians who live downstream, 98 00:05:03,367 --> 00:05:08,754 all local politicians, to resist this assault on their homeland, 99 00:05:08,754 --> 00:05:12,111 but now everything hangs in the balance. 100 00:05:12,111 --> 00:05:14,923 Decisions that will be made this year will literally determine 101 00:05:14,923 --> 00:05:17,779 the fate of this country. 102 00:05:17,779 --> 00:05:19,681 The Tahltan have called for the creation 103 00:05:19,681 --> 00:05:22,880 of a tribal heritage reserve which will set aside 104 00:05:22,880 --> 00:05:27,632 the largest protected area in British Columbia. 105 00:05:27,632 --> 00:05:31,480 Our goal is not only to help them do that 106 00:05:31,480 --> 00:05:35,180 but to encourage our friends, the good people at Shell, 107 00:05:35,180 --> 00:05:38,744 not only to withdraw from the Sacred Headwaters, 108 00:05:38,744 --> 00:05:41,953 but to move forward with us and join us 109 00:05:41,953 --> 00:05:45,893 as we do the remarkable, the extraordinary: 110 00:05:45,893 --> 00:05:50,244 set aside a protected area that will be for all time 111 00:05:50,244 --> 00:05:53,906 not simply the Sacred Headwaters of the Tahltan people 112 00:05:53,906 --> 00:05:58,644 but the sacred headwaters of all people in the world. 113 00:05:58,644 --> 00:06:02,619 The Tahltan need your help. We need your help. 114 00:06:02,619 --> 00:06:05,796 And if any of you would like to join us on this great adventure, 115 00:06:05,796 --> 00:06:08,732 please come and see me later today. 116 00:06:08,732 --> 00:06:10,982 Thank you very much. 117 00:06:10,982 --> 00:06:15,025 (Applause)