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I'm Nick Grillet. I'm going to show you guys how I pack a Sabre 2.

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Pretty much the same pack job whether it's the Sabre 2, Stiletto...

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anything made by Precision, Icarus, PD, Aerodyne...you name it. Pretty much pack everything the same.

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First thing that I do, I like to weight down the rig.

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One of the important things is to have proper line tension during the pack job.

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I've got my weight here on the risers.

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Whether you're packing in a hanger, or on grass, tarp...

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figure out a way that you can secure the rig so that you can get some good tension on those lines

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to keep 'em straight.

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Start by picking the steering lines up and laying them on my index finger.

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And then grabbing those rear risers in between my index finger and my middle finger.

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And in between my middle finger and my ring finger I pick up those front risers,

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and I walk up the lines. It's basically a continuity check.

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It allows me to make sure that the jumper - if it wasn't me -

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didn't flip through the lines or anything on landing.

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So I give it a quick check, make sure the steering lines are clear - which they are.

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The C's and D's - which they are - and the A's and B's.

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Then I throw it over my shoulder.

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It's comfortable for me to throw it over my shoulder as opposed to just holding with my hand.

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It's all personal preference.

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First thing that I do is grab the C's and D's and A's and B's and give the canopy a good shake left to right.

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It's essentially the same thing as if you were to start on the ground and do a flat pack.

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What it allows for is the canopy to lay flat instead of being bunched up...

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from any air that might be in the canopy, or any wind that may be out there...

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that this jumper was struggling with while he was picking up his canopy.

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So, once I do that, I'm just going to go...I'm going to start and do a normal flake job just like anything else.

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Sabre 2 happens to be a nine-cell, so there should be nine of these cells that I'm going to count out.

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Not too concerned about where the cell's gonna place when I'm actually flaking.

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I'm more concerned about the line attachment points here.

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Up here by the slider. Those are what I really want to have equal.

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So, I'm just going to go through...one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, and nine.

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Flatten those out a little bit, get some air out.

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I can see that all these line attachment points look good. They're in place,

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so that I know that the canopy is going to be easy for me to pack.

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I secure it between my legs - again personal preference.

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Some people don't even secure the nose.

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I find especially starting packing up. So, starting packing...

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Uh, it's easier to keep stuff under control that way.

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I'm just going to lift up this slider, and I'm going to...

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There's a pocket that's kind of created, between the A line and the B lines.

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I think everybody has learned from any packing class that they've taken...

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that the canopy goes - the canopy material goes to the outside, the lines go to the centre.

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I'm looking through here and seeing that my line attachment points are pretty much lining up,

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and that's what I'm trying to achieve.

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So I work my way through the pack job, pushing the material to the outside,

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keeping those lines to the inside.

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Helps because I have longer arms. Move down to the stabiliser and these steering lines.

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I'm not going to mess with them right now. I'm basically just going to clear them out of the way.

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Get every last one of them in line.

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Because it's a nine-cell there's five lines here.

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Line attachment points that I need to deal with.

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Stow that there for now.

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This just gives you a better idea of what it looks like from the packer's point of view.

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So, as I reach my hand down in there you can see there's all these line attachment points.

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Are pretty much in line. I'm just going to reach my hand into that open fabric here.

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Push the canopy fabric to the outside while trying to keep these line attachment points to the centre.

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I'd really like to have these line up as best as possible.

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I just put my hand on the outside to lay those nice and flat.

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We look into the next one here.

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And we can see where all that material is. We know exactly where we're going to put our hand.

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We can see the line attachment points. Gonna put my hand in there.

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This is why I put my hand on the top side on the outside of the pack job.

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It helps me keep those line attachment points in place.

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And if we just pull that stabiliser off to the side a bit, you can see that everything's nice and neat in there.

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Once we go further on it gets a little more challenging,

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because the...any taper that may occur. Any elliptical ...

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These are the steering lines. I'm not worried about them; I'm just getting them out of the way.

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Here's four. Those are the really easy ones to find.

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This fifth one is over here, hidden, on the stabiliser itself.

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Want to make sure that we find that every time.

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Grab all of those together. I like to just keep my hand on the five line attachment points while I do this.

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And I go back. Material's to the outside. All these line attachment points are towards the centre of the canopy.

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Then I straighten out those steering lines.

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Everything is good here. These are all in line.

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I'm just going to lay the stabiliser on top. If you have snaps on your canopy this is where you'd connect those.

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And then I just allow that slider to go back into position.

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As I work the other side.

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That's basically one side. I'm going to do the exact same thing to the other side now.

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Kind of pull up that slider grommet so that I can see in there.

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Material goes to the outside of the canopy. I keep my hand on here to keep those line attachment points to the centre.

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And again I work my way through the canopy. Like so.

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You notice I'm kind of leaning away from the rig. I'm keeping the line tension.

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I want to make sure that there's not any slack in my lines.

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It's very important.

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These are the steering lines. Just gonna take those out to the side.

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So, basically I've done the flaking that I need to do.

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Doesn't take too long. Fabric to the outside. Line attachment points to the centre.

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Now, a couple of very important things that need to take place.

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I need to make sure that my slider grommets are all the way down on the stops.

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If they're up here and I'm starting to roll the tail up, there's a good chance that

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I'm going to experience a hard opening becaues the sliders aren't in position.

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You see a lot of people pull a slider out here and make a pocket in the lip.

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All that does is when you pull the slider that direction - whether it's toward the tail of the canopy...

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or towards the nose of the canopy - you end up taking some of the slider away from the sides here,

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and whichever direction you're pulling it from.

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So if I'm pulling it towards the nose, I'm pulling it away from the tail and from each side.

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The best thing that you could do is take your index finger and push it straight down in between that slider...

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until you feel some tension on that. That ensures that your grommets are down all the way,

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and that your slider's pretty much in position.

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After that I just kind of clean it up a bit, and make sure that there's equal parts left to right, nose to tail.

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Also, while I'm here, I can see if my risers are straight. If my grommets are lined up, I know my risers are straight.

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If my grommets are offset, I know there's something going on behind me.

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I don't need to turn around and look to fix it.

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I can just do whatever I need to do to straighten it right here at the slider.

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Once everything's in position, I'm going to go through one more time,

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and just make sure that this nose hasn't got tucked awry, or pushed in or anything.

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I don't do anything to the nose. I leave it just like that.

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Some people push it in. That's fine if that's the opening that you desire.

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Some people roll it. For starting out - for teaching people how to pack - I don't do anything.

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Once you have your canopy, and you're making the jumps on your canopy

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if you wanna experiment with your pack job, see what makes a difference...

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and try to find an opening that you like the best, go for it...

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but know that we've done a lot of testing as well - individual skydivers, and everything else,

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and we've found that keeping the nose straight gives us the most consistent opening.